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The day looked not very beachy so we decided to go and explore the capital city - Port Louis.
We
caught a bus into Grande Baie which is pretty much the main touristy
town in the north of the Island and then took an express bus to Port
Louis.
Port Louis is surrounded by a ring of quite magnificient
jagged moutains. You drive through tall crops of sugar cane and catch
glimpses of these mountains as you near the capital.
Port Louis
is only a little city but round the market there is quite a cool vibe.
Mauricienne music pumps from a music shop, there are Indian shops
sellling clothes and spices, fruit and vegetable stalls, Chinese
traders. It is weird being in a predominately Hindi country off the
coast of Africa where everyone speaks French! Shops have names like
"Patisserie - Ismael et Fils", "Quincallerie Sahweg", "Magasin du Ille
de France", "Isabella Coiffure", "Roti Chaud - Chez Neeta". It is all
pretty cool and confusing. The few small blocks in the centre of town
is where you can see all the races and cultures of the island on
display - Hindi, Chinese, French, African and Moslem.
In some
ways it reminds me of Thailand, and in basically no ways does it remind
me of either France or Africa which were the only two points of
reference I had on the place before arrival. It is not as busy and
hectic as a Thai city but it does have that cheap, almost communist
concrete cinder block architecture bleeding tropical moulds. It is
quite laid back, the traffic is nowhere near as dangerous or crazed as
they warn - especially given its heritage of French and Indian driving
stock. And people are friendly, even if they speak French.
The place
and people seem neither rich nor poor, even though it is a luxurious
european holiday destination at the same time as having little in the
way to export or any trading friends and having to import almost
everything other than beer and sugar.
Even though the town is
almost 200 years old - there is not much in the way of old buildings,
it is mostly the stained and sweating concrete of a 20th century
tropical town with plenty of air conditionners and small Asian
motorbikes. Some of the old 'colonial' style building which survive in
the commercial district still used and have had no restorative
attention and are badly deteroriating.
We climbed the hill above the
city to Fort Adelaide. Which the Brits put up in the beginning of the
1800's after they thrashed the frogs in naval warfare.
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