Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Text written in: English
Ulaan Bataar, Mongolia, is really an interesting city. As Mongolia begins to emerge from having the rug pulled out from under them by Russia after the collapse of the Soviet Union, the city has a chaotic energy to it with a mix of traditional Mongolian, Soviet Russian, and capitalist mentalities coexisting. New office buildings are being built next to family gers, the traditional tent-like structure that this nomadic culture has used for centuries.
The apartment we rented from Zaya was in another classic old Soviet boxy cement apartment building, and Zaya apologized that the apartment was so simply furnished because many basic things were still difficult to get in Mongolia. Like, apparently, toilet seats, because our toilet didn't have one. The lack of a toilet seat was actually the cause of much rejoicing on my part because Andrea couldn't tell me to put the seat down. That was funny for about half a day, then the fact that we had no toilet seat became very unfunny.
Our apartment was located right downtown next to the massive State Department Store, which is a throwback to the Soviet days when it was the only store in town. Today it houses a several different vendors on each of the many floors and you can find just about anything so it's still a good place to go and shop, but it takes a little while to find what you're looking for. Before we headed out to explore the city for the first time, Zaya warned us to be careful crossing the street. We thought it was a nice, motherly thing to say until we actually tried to cross the street. We think that cars may actually have the right of way in Ulaan Bataar, because we never once saw even the slightest attempt to slow down for pedestrians. On the contrary, it seemed as though cars would actually speed up and aim for them. Crossing the street was like playing a live game of Frogger, where you'd cross one lane, stand precariously on between lanes as cars rocketed past you on both sides, and make a break for it once you saw another opening. We only saw two or three intersections with traffic signals which nobody paid attention to anyway, so the rest of the time we'd just crowd in with a bunch of other people and hope they'd go for the weak ones.
One of the first things we did after arriving from Russia was to rejoice in the western food offerings. Since authentic Mongolian recipes number about three and all of them contain Mutton, the capital city has been quick to embrace restaurants with a multitude of cuisines including French bakeries, Thai food, sushi, etc. The only slightly embarassing part is that while so many countries represented offer a plethora of savory dishes, anything labeled "American" seemed to have only burgers and pizza. We made the mistake of going to one of the American restaurants, and were instantly transported back to somewhere in we'd say, Arkansas, as a mother tried to manage 9 (yes, actually 9) kids ranging in age from two to 14 having a ketchup fight while the father discussed how he had been able to arrange to have his high powered rifle imported into the country for hunting. It's not that we were worried that those kids weren't getting an authentic Mongolian experience, we were worried that the Mongolians were getting an authentic American one.
We spent a couple of days in the city looking for a trek to the Gobi desert and then preparing for it, and not much else. There are a couple of good monastaries and a few temples which we didn't go to, and we spent about 5 minutes in touristy Sukhbataar Square in the center of the city. We did make a point to go to the Natural History Museum to see, among other things, several dinosaur skeletons which got us pretty excited to go to the Gobi desert and discover our own. The weather in the city was perfect: warm days and crisp evenings, although the city does have a pollution problem since it's effectively surrounded by mountains and the power plants burn coal. By afternoon it can be difficult to see the hills which are only a few miles distant, and we could really feel it in our lungs by the end of each day.